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The Serial Tourist's Guide to Jerusalem
Questions? Comments?
Copyright 2006 by Morris Rosenthal
All Rights Reserved
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Earlier this year, I received the following e-mail from a reader of my old
Jerusalem tour guide. "OK, so Laundromats are expensive. But for me, a business
traveler, they are essential. Your essay about Jerusalem is interesting but
a list of laundromat locations (particularly in the Rehavia area where the
hotels are) would have been more useful." Everybody loves a critic, and he
might be correct spelling "laundromat" with an "o", I'll have to check. In
any case, today I'm writing a little about doing laundry in Jerusalem in
the coin operated places I've been calling laundrymats, with a "y." I currently
know of exactly five coin-op laundromats in town, and three of them are clustered
right around Bezalel in Nachalot, about a ten minute walk from the middle
of Rechavia where I'm currently living. All three of these laundromats are
tiny by American standards, just three washing machines and two dryers in
each.
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The two laundromats located on Bezalel are owned by the same outfit, Jasmine,
with one right up next to Shalom Falafel right across from where Ussishkin
intersects with Bezalel and the the other 100 yards lower, roughly across
from the Pargod (Curtain) Theatre. Both of these laundromats are equipped
with front loaders which cost 15 IS for a wash. At the current exchange rate,
15 IS is almost $3.50. I can get two weeks worth of underwear and two pairs
of jeans crammed in, but that's pretty near the limit. The machines offer
six pre-programmed washing settings, the one for white cotton uses water
that's practically boiling. The time the wash takes is dependent on the program
chosen, but I think they all come in between 30 and 35 minutes. The LED display
on the washing machines start by showing the amount of money required (i.e.
15 IS) which decreases with each five shekel coin you deposit. You have to
have exact change in five shekel coins prepared. Once the machine is paid
and starts to operate it shows the time remaining.
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Front loaders, by their nature, get wet clothes pretty dry if they aren't
over packed, because the spin at such a high RPM. The dryers accept 1 shekel
or 5 shekel coins, maybe 10 shekel coins as well, never tried. I usually
put in six or 7 shekels and get the stuff back just slightly damp. Each shekel
buys you three minutes, used to be four minutes years ago. The other laundromat
in this area in just around the corner from the Pargod on Nisim Behar. It
may be owned by somebody else because it has a different name than the other
two, and it uses different machines. Top loader Whirlpool commercial washers
and Israeli made (or labeled) commercial dryers. The prices are the same
for washing, and there's a TV and a lot more room to move around than in
the Bezalel laundrys. The problem, of course, is that it still only has three
washing machines. As near as I can tell, Israelis figure that anybody who
wastes money on washing machines is a friar, so they buy one as soon as they
rent an apartment, on payments.
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There's another laundromat near the Central Bus Station on the main drag,
and one more on Emek Refaim in the German Colony, unless the high real estate
values have forced them out. I've never seen a laundromat in a neighborhood
that didn't have a high temporary resident population. When I lived in Beit
Hakerem last year, the cluster of laundromats on Bezalel was a 35 minute
walk, yet I lugged my laundry over every other week because I don't like
full service laundrys and I never found any options on the other side of
town. The laundry by the Central bus station might have been five minutes
closer, but it's also limited to three washing machines, so it's too risky
to walk all the way there and find out there's a line waiting for the machines.
The busiest of the three laundromats on Bezalel always seems to be the one
up by Shalom Falafel, the lower one on Bezalel may be the least busy since
nobody seems to know where it is and it's only close to the bottom of Nachalot
on the one side.
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