|
The Serial Tourist's Guide to Jerusalem
Questions? Comments?
Copyright 2006 by Morris Rosenthal
All Rights Reserved
|
|
Real estate developers in Jerusalem have been tearing down historic buildings
for years to make room housing, it's not as if there's a surplus of space
waiting to be exploited in the city. However, there are historic buildings
and there are historic buildings. One such building was the Tannous Brothers
building, built in the 1930's. My sister showed me the building in the 1980's.
To quote from the historical plaque "This building, under the command of
Nataniel Lorch, served as a front line post. On the night of May 18th, 1948,
a unit of the Jerusalem-Etzioni Brigade set out from the Tannous Bros. building
in an unsuccessful attempt to free the besieged Jewish Quarter in the Old
City. From 1948 until the Six Day War in June 1967, the Tannous Bros. building
stood on the armistice line established between the Kingdom of Jordan and
the State of Israel During this period, families of new immigrants to Israel
inhabited the building which was continuously exposed to sniper fire from
the Jordanian Legion, stationed on the Old City wall. Until it's demolition
in 1990, this building was a symbol of a divided city." Now, the shot-up
stones bearing the name of the building decorate the gate of one of Jerusalem's
most luxurious apartment projects.
|
|
The building site which afforded such an irresistable target to the Jordanian
Legion stationed on the Old City walls now offers some well heeled buyers
a million dollar view of the Old City. From the mirpessot (balcony patios)
of these apartments in David's Village, the owners can drink coffee as the
sun rises over the City of David (You'd have to buy on the other side of
the Old City to watch the sun set on it). Since there are no streets for
automobiles within this or any other luxury housing development I've seen,
it's about as quiet as Jerusalem gets, at least when all the nearby construction
winds up. I was generous in shooting a picture from this angle, showing some
windows with the shutters open, but it is Hannuka this week, meaning there
are a few signs of life about the place. When I was walking on King George
last week, I overheard a single sentence uttered by a well dressed woman
in her 30's to her male companion as they passed me in the opposite direction.
"Israel is the next Florida," she told him. There are a couple weeks in the
winter where staying in upscale Jerusalem neighborhoods could give an American
that impression, and that's a problem for the city.
|
|
|
Because Israel is not the next Florida, and the snow birds who migrate South
every winter for six months and a day to warm up and change their tax residence
don't have any significant counterpart in part-time Israel residents. The
foreign Jews who buy luxury housing in Jerusalem, mainly Americans, French
and Canadians, tend to come for the holidays, and that's about it. Large
portions of the luxury complexes I've seen are shuttered with bolts rather
than latches, and armed security keeps an eye on the place so nobody breaks
in and steals the flat screen TV's A whole stretch of Jerusalem along the
walls of the Old City has been turned into a 50 week a year ghost town, with
little more than empty luxury apartments and a giant underground parking
lot that's closed nights and weekends.People still walk through the area
on their way to the Jaffa Gate, but I've already had one woman tell me she
won't walk through the most expensive real estate in Jerusalem at night because
it's too spooky. There's no life in these projects most of the year, even
hotels probably do more for a neighborhood than "investment real estate"
that nobody rents out
|
|
Yemin Moshe is a little better than the newer luxury complexes. I don't know
if it's because some Israelis or Olim bought there, because the units are
occasionally rented out long term, or if they were just more affordable to
start with. It's got a nice feel to it, the gardens look more natural than
the "better than nature" gardens the big developers put in. Of course, they
probably started as "better than nature" gardens a couple decades ago, but
they've has a chance to wear in. Yemin Moshe is further from the Yafo gate
than the other developments, but closer to the German Colony, or the Cotel,
if you take the outer wall route. In all of these cases, the million dollar
views come with million dollar plus price tags. I guess Israel and Florida
share palm trees, citrus, and mild winter weather in common, but I wouldn't
push the comparison much further. Well, I suppose in Florida they're eating
up the Everglades to build new retirement communities for wealthy vacationers,
but while many snow birds transition into year-round Florida residents, I
don't see much of that happening in Jerusalem
|
|
|
Here's the latest luxury project going up right across from the Yafo gate.
On the other side of this construction site is the wall of the Cold City
along the Christian Quarter. The structure in the center of the picture that
looks like a stone house is in fact a stone house, which I assume they are
taking down. All of the stones have been numbered so the house can be reassembled
in another location, and it that way, a little of Jerusalem's historic
architecture is preserved. I suppose since I've only been watching the
construction site for a month, there's an outside chance they took the house
down to get it out of the way during the constructions of the bordering
buildings, and now they're going to integrate it back into the site to give
it a little class. There used to be a whole little neighborhood in this area,
Mamilla it was called. The first apartments will be ready for occupancy in
2007. The development below is the Holyland project, luxury apartments across
the street from the Jerusalem Mall at Malcha, where according to a taxi driver
I rode by with, rich Israelis are buying in. He also said they have a health
club in there that costs $800/month, even after you buy a million dollar
apartment!
|
|
|
|
|